Orecchiette with Eggplant and Italian Sausage | 意式肉腸茄子貓耳朵麵

附中文食譜

Summer in Rome conjures up images of red-checkered tables and chairs spilling onto the sidewalk, of food lovers dining and drinking well into the evening, of lively farmers markets carrying the bounty of Italy's growing season - all alongside imposing ruins of Ancient Rome.

A stroll through the compact yet complete Circus Maximus Farmers Market will take you on a culinary journey through the sights and smells of an Italian summer. Emerald green zucchini, deep purple aubergines and bursting red, candy-sweet tomatoes of all shapes and sizes meet the pungent aroma of cured meats and fresh made stracciatella di bufala. Ristorantes and trattorias around town offer up seasonal specials, showcasing the freshest of local, in-season ingredients.

Interestingly, I have not always had the same appreciation for Italian cuisine. In my early years of travel I have had my fair share of dismal Italian food, falling victim for obvious tourist traps that were more concerned about turning over tables than food. I was confounded, disappointed, my experience once so marred by droopy, soggy, skimpy pizza that I left questioning what Italian food was.

Falling in love with Trastevere, Rome [Summer 2016]

It wasn't until recently as my passion and curiosity for cooking grew that I started understanding and truly appreciating the essence of great italian food: simplicity, highlighted by the freshest, seasonal ingredients.

Over the years I trailed off the beaten path, exploring the nooks and crannies of Rome and beyond, tasting local treats and regional dishes along the way. My discoveries are as ground-breaking as they are elemental. Whether it is tagliatelle amatriciana, a classic pizza margherita, or a simple antipasto of burratina affumicata, the connection is clear: all you need is a few good ingredients to make an amazing dish.

Call me crazy - never had it occurred to me before just how much tomatoes themselves contribute to the actual flavor of a tomato sauce until my last pizza in Rome - it was a transcendental moment. I was positively enlightened. Perhaps possessed. You get the idea.

Below is my take on a simple pasta dish I had as I explored Italy: Orecchiette con Melanzane e Salsiccia. Little bite-sized orecchiette (literally "small ears" in Italian) makes a wonderful vehicle to hold the chunky sauce, although any kind of pasta will do. The tomato sauce can be made in large batches ahead of time and frozen for later use; recipe as follows:

Classic Homemade Tomato Sauce | Sugo al Pomodoro

What you'll need...
200g orecchiette
2 sweet Italian sausage with fennel, casing removed
1 small eggplant, diced into bite-sized cubes
8 cherry tomatoes, halved
1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
Classic Homemade Tomato Sauce
Grated pecorino or Parmesan cheese, for garnish

Directions...
1. Toss eggplant with one teaspoon of salt and drain for a few minutes on paper towel. Bring a salted pot of water to boil, cook pasta till al dente. Drain, reserving a small amount of pasta water.

2. Heat oil in a skillet over medium low heat, add sausage. Crumble the sausage and cook until beginning to brown. Pat the moisture off the eggplant and add to the sausage. Cook to soften, partially covered, about 6 minutes.

3. Add homemade tomato sauce and cherry tomatoes, stir to combine and cook till heated through. Add some pasta water if necessary.

4. Stir in cooked orecchiette and season to taste with salt and pepper. Plate and top with grated cheese. Buon appetito!

《意式肉腸茄子貓耳朵麵》

材料：

貓耳朵麵  200 克

意式肉腸  2 條 除去腸衣
茄子  1 小個
車厘茄  8 個 切半

初榨橄欖油   1 湯匙
自家製意式番茄醬
芝士  隨個人喜好

做法：
1. 茄子切成小丁，撒上 1 茶匙鹽拌勻出水。
2. 滾水裡加鹽及意粉，煮至彈牙撈起備用。可保留少量意粉水備用。
3. 橄欖油用中慢火燒熱，加入意式肉腸，用鏟剁碎並煎至呈金黃色。
4. 茄子用吸水紙印乾，加入平鍋跟肉腸一起煮至軟身，約 6 分鐘。
5. 加入自家製意式番茄醬和車厘茄拌勻，有需要的話可加少量意粉水。
6. 番茄醬滾後拌入貓耳朵麵，拌勻再作調味關火即成。
7. 上碟後隨意撒上芝士，再配上一杯白酒，好好品嚐！

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Gourmet Skillet Spinach Mac 'n' Cheese

附中文食譜

Okay, let's get straight to the point - Mac 'n' Cheese ain't the healthiest food out there, nor is it ever pretending to be. But it is so downright scrumptious that we should all just indulge once a while. After all, it gives us another reason to exercise... right?
Right.

Well, the good news is at home you do have the choice to easily create a mac 'n' cheese from scratch your way that is lighter without sacrificing anything that makes a great mac 'n' cheese what it is.

Every time I set foot on New York City, I cannot help but get seduced into artisan cheese shops, their pungent aroma guiding me like a beacon. Many of these gourmet meccas also serve up grilled cheese and delectable mac 'n' cheese. On my recent food crawl in East Village, a sudden spring shower had me ducking under an awning for shelter. As I looked up, there I stood right before S'MAC, a tiny storefront specializing wholly in the almighty mac 'n' cheese. Well, I guess fate has it all planned out.

Beecher's serves up their "World's Best" Mac & Cheese

Beecher's Handmade Cheese (Union Square)
900 Broadway, New York, NY 10003

Murray's Cheese Shop and Bar (Greenwich Village)
264 Bleecker St, New York, NY 10014

S'MAC (East Village)
345 E 12th St, New York, NY 10003

Macaroni and cheese these days manifests itself in so many varied ways that long gone are the days when good old mac 'n' cheese only comes in a box with fluorescent orange powdered cheese mix. Whether it is Brie, Cheddar, Gouda, Manchego, or a combination, the cheese defines your mac 'n' cheese. You can load up on garlic and herbs, go green with broccoli, portobello and quinoa, toss in chicken or chorizo, make it gluten-free or vegan, add a touch of Cajun or even an Indian twist - the possibilities are endless. Despite all the permutations, one thing remains constant that makes this American classic truly irresistible: the dreamy creaminess and cheesiness.

My kitchen now equipped with cast iron skillets (my latest obsession), I am determined to make a mean mac 'n' cheese from scratch. I opted for 2% fat milk and went light on cheese and butter; packed in a sizable amount of baby spinach and added just a hint of Roquefort for a grown-up twist; then finally, a crispy homemade Parmesan breadcrumb to top it all - making a macaroni and cheese that is just scrumptiously delicious.

P.S. I promise to get on the treadmill... maybe another day.





What you'll need...
2 cups elbow macaroni, cavatappi, or sea shells
3 garlic cloves, minced
3 shallots or 1 small onion, finely chopped
1 1/2 tablespoon butter
2 tablespoon all-purpose flour
1 cup low fat milk
2 large handfuls of baby spinach
3/4 scant cup freshly grated Manchego cheese
2 tablespoon blue cheese, such as Roquefort, crumbled (optional)
Pinch of nutmeg* (optional)
Pinch of paprika

For the quick Homemade Seasoned Parmesan Breadcrumbs recipe, click here!

Directions...

1. Preheat oven to 200C/400F.

Bring a pot of salted water to boil, add pasta and cook until just shy of al dente, 6 to 7 minutes. Meanwhile, microwave milk on HIGH until warm, about 60 seconds.

 

2. Melt butter in a cast iron skillet or saucepan over medium-low heat, add shallots and garlic and sauté until fragrant, about two minutes. Add flour and, stirring constantly with a whisk, cook until smooth, one minute.

3. Gradually whisk in warm milk and cook for 4 to 5 minutes, until thickened and smooth. Using your hands, roughly rip handfuls of baby spinach and fold into the milk mixture. Off the heat as soon as the spinach begins to wilt.

4. Add the cheeses and season with salt, pepper, paprika, and nutmeg. Add the cooked macaroni and stir well. Pour into individual sized gratin dishes if not using cast iron. Sprinkle the breadcrumb mixture over the top of the pasta. Bake for 20 minutes or until golden and bubbly.  

Serve immediately, sauce it up with hot sauce and savor every luscious bite!

*Note: though not a must, adding just a pinch of nutmeg enhances and rounds off the creamy cheese sauce with a surprisingly bright, earthy tone.

《焗烤芝士菠菜通心粉》 

材料：

永不吃膩的經典焗芝士通心粉！

通心粉  200 克
蒜頭  3 瓣（切碎）
乾蔥  3 個（切碎）
牛油  1 1/2 湯匙
麵粉  2 湯匙
低脂奶  240 毫升
幼嫩菠菜  200 克
曼徹格芝士碎  75 克
藍紋芝士碎  10 克
肉豆蔻粉  少許
辣椒粉  少許

自製香草帕爾馬麵包糠：
多士麵包  2-3 塊（已放數天的更合適）
帕爾馬芝士碎  25 克
橄欖油  少許
香草碎  少許
蒜鹽  少許
黑胡椒  少許

預熱焗爐至 150C / 300F。用食物處理器將所有材料打碎，然後平鋪在烤盤上焗約5分鐘，直至金黃香脆。取出晾涼後置密封盒內可冷藏存放四星期。

做法：
1. 預熱焗爐至 200C / 400F。
2. 滾水裡加鹽，煮意粉時間約比包裝上指示的少1-2分鐘，煮好撈起備用。
3. 牛奶用微波爐稍為叮熱，約1分鐘。
4. 牛油用慢火煮溶，放入乾蔥及蒜蓉炒香。
5. 倒入麵粉，攪拌約1分鐘，形成均勻的麵粉糊。
6. 慢慢倒入暖奶，期間不停攪拌至麵粉糊均勻融化。融化好了以後用中小火持續加熱和攪拌，直到醬汁收乾呈濃稠狀。
7. 菠菜用手稍微撕碎，再放入醬汁。攪拌好後關火。
8. 加入芝士，持續攪拌至開始融化。此時可以試味並加入適當調味。
9. 將煮好的意粉拌入醬汁中，置入烤盤再撒上自製香草帕爾馬麵包糠。放入焗爐烤約20分鐘直至表面金黃香脆、內裏醬汁沸騰，香味四溢即成！

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Kabocha no Nimono | Sake Braised Japanese Pumpkin

We may be no stranger to Japanese cuisine - as diverse as it can be - given its international presence and penetration into pop culture and our day-to-day diet. But when it comes to Japanese home cooking, it is an infinite universe yet to be fully explored and appreciated by food-lovers the world over.

Outside of the usual dining favorites, namely sushi, tonkatsu, ramen, yakitori, shabu-shabu (the list is really rather inexhaustible, to our bellies' delight), my exposure to authentic Japanese home cooking has been admittedly limited. It was that moment during my first ever kaiseki experience at a picturesque hillside hot spring ryokan near Mount Aso, Kyushu, that struck a chord in me.

Food as nourishment, food as an art: my life-changing, virgin experience in kaiseki at Yamaguchi Ryokan and Ryokan Sanga, Kyushu, Japan | Mar 2013

While kaiseki (懐石料理) - the highly ritual multi-course traditional Japanese meal characterized by small portions, subtle flavors, and impeccable, artful presentation - may rightfully be compared to Western haute cuisine, it most certainly is grounded on values that carry through conventional, ordinary home cooking with its emphasis on simplicity and fresh seasonal ingredients.

Frolicking in lush and serene greenscape by the creek, Kurokawa

I've recently been invited to a friend's place for Japanese style home cooked dinner. With many years of working with a Japanese chef, he swiftly prepared a light but satisfying meal featuring primarily vegetables - with the help of relatively few seasonings.

In stark contrast to most Asian cuisines driven by a variety of sauces and condiments, a large number of dishes in Japanese home cooking are created from just five basic seasonings: mirin, sake, sugar, soy sauce, and dashi (だし, a light stock made from dried bonito flakes and kombu seaweed). One of the many secrets behind Japanese home cooking is "simplicity" - complement the primary ingredients with a delicate touch of seasoning, rather than dominating them; let the natural flavors sing.

One of the dishes made that night was this irresistable braised kabocha (かぼちゃの煮物). Unlike conventional methods of simmering, the pumpkin is first seared at high temperature then finished in the classic seasonings to enhance flavor and texture. A great case in point, a simple handful of seasoning brings out the sweetness of the pumpkin. Topped with barely seasoned pan-fried chicken mince, this simple dish promises to astound with umami.

To prepare...
1 (~450g) kabocha (alternately use Australian kent pumpkin)
1 cup Japanese sake
1 cup bonito kombu dashi
2 tablespoon mirin
2 tablespoon white sugar (or brown sugar for a richer taste)
2 tablespoon Japanese shoyu
1 tablespoon vegetable oil

For the minced chicken... (optional)
100g ground chicken 
1 tablespoon mirin
1/2 teaspoon sea salt
Vegetable oil for pan frying

1. Remove seeds and cut pumpkin into 2-inch pieces leaving the skin on. On medium heat, add vegetable oil to skillet and lightly sear the surface of pumpkin chunks, skin-side down first. Stir occasionally to evenly brown the pumpkin, about 4 minutes.

2. Cook pumpkin covered until fork tender on medium heat, 5-8 minutes (cooking time varies depending on type of pumpkin). Add sake, dashi, mirin, shoyu, and sugar and bring to a low boil. Cook until reduced. Plate and set aside.

3. On medium heat, pan fry minced chicken (if using) in a small pan with vegetable oil. Season with mirin and sea salt. Top pumpkin with minced chicken and serve. いただきます！

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Eating, Exploring on Wheels | Amsterdam

Stumbling upon De Riekermolen by accident on bike

Strolling through Albert Cuypmarkt, Amsterdam's century-old street market back in late March, one cannot help but feel a sense of renewal as winter gently gives way to spring. Seasonal produce of all colors of the spectrum abound, competing with stall after stall of budding tulips and vibrant blossoms. At roughly 4pm on a Thursday afternoon, under the glowing early-spring sun, chic, modishly dressed locals are already crowding the scores of bars and bistros lining the streets, creating a vibe that is both convivial and remarkably lively. After combing through every fishmonger, Dutch cheese and spice trader, I appeased my fervent craving for broodje haring then picked up some fresh produce for my kitchen back home.

(Clockwise from top right) The historical, lively Albert Cuymarkt street market bustling with locals and hungry visitors, chefs and homecooks; the famous I AMSTERDAM logo on Museumplein; pretty faces of the flower capital of the world!

A city best explored on bike or on foot, Amsterdam is undoubtedly one of my favorite cities in the world. My favorite thing to do? Hopping on a bike, ride along the locals, and head towards the concentric circle that is the city center, exploring one fascinating layer after another just like peeling an onion. Whether day or night, the numerous canals running through the city exude magic - especially when dusk falls, and when the lights light up the rolling banks and charming bridges. When in need for an escape, I'd head south or west, leisurely riding through peaceful parks and along rivers, occasionally stopping to take in views of olden windmills and fields of tulips and daffodils so iconic of Netherlands.

Not only does Amsterdam host some of the most genteel and friendliest locals, it also boasts amazing eats that foodies will go head over heels for. Among the many food finds I have compiled a short list of must haves on my every visit to Amsterdam.

(From left) Broodje haring - freshly deboned raw herring with onions and pickle in a sandwich; Dutch pancake - nuf' said; Dutch apple pie - flaky crust piled high with thinly sliced apples and topped with streusel!

Oh, did I not mention there is that Amsterdam Heineken Experience?

My favorite dessert spots...

De Laatste Kruimel, Langebrugsteeg 4: a cute and welcoming pastry and coffee shop, serving up all kinds of homemade pies and quiches, overlooking a canal
Pannenkoekenhuis "Upstairs", Grimburgwal 2: a quirky, cozy, dainty little pancake house upstairs of possibly the world's steepest steps, serving up traditional pancakes

My favorite street markets...

Noordermarkt, Joordan
Albert Cuymarkt, De Pijp

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Ski, Eat, Drink | Hokkaido

"Power ranging" on the summit of Mt. Isola!!

Long time no see! Since my last entry I have celebrated my birthday and been away skiing in Hokkaido and eating away in Osaka, Japan, effectively putting on a couple of kilos in as short as one week. Skiing for four consecutive days and burning my quads and back muscles seemed to have little effect on counterbalancing the noticeable bump that formed around my midsection. Why, blame it on the scrumptious all-you-can-eats (a.k.a. suicide traps), daily overdose of Japanese alcohol, and the diverse, ever-pleasing seasonal Japanese cuisine. We even stashed miniature bottles of Taketsuru (竹鶴) Pure Malt 17 years in our pockets to refuel on the slopes... seriously. Black Diamond? Piece of cake.

Paying respect to the Founder of Japanese Whiskey and sampling vintage whiskeys at the Nikka Whiskey Distillery, Yoichi (余市), Hokkaido

The epitome of freshness and indulgence: sashimi don and the sweetest, melt-in-your-mouth uni sashimi... this is what bliss is  

(From left) Hokkaido-style curry; guilt-laden premium pork belly morsels heading to the grill; irresistable Hokkaido-style cheesecake that we paired with whiskey

Returning to home, "overweight" and misshaped just like my luggages, I vowed to get back in shape and stay away from any sorts of buffets until further notice and adopt a strict, healthy diet to my best ability when at home. So stay tuned for some exciting, low-carb recipes to come soon!

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Happy 2015! | Taipei

Dear home cooks,

Kicking off my cross-year trip to Taipei with the sights and sounds and scents of Raohe Night Market (饒河觀光夜市)

New Years Eve Countdown at Taipei 101

Alvin's Penthouse Kitchen wishes you a fruitful, delicious, Happy 2015!! As 2014 drew to a close, the Penthouse Kitchen took a little break and headed for Taipei for the New Years. As with all visits to Taiwan's bustling capital, the first and foremost stop on the itinerary is none but the city's many famed night markets. There, one navigates through narrow channels lined with food hawkers, each showcasing a specialty of some sort that ranges from ubiquitous local classics to the original and the creative.

As one grapples with the sights and sounds of a true steet food paradise, you are bound to fall first for the tantalizing aromas of sticky, grilled wild boar sausages（山豬肉香腸）infusing the atmosphere. And just as you find yourself overwhelmed by choice, the faintly puckering, pungent waft of deep-fried stinky tofu（臭豆腐）- served accompanied by pickled cabbage and a garlicky chili sauce - will surely assault your nostrils and have you drooling for more. Love it or hate it, there's just no ignoring it.

A stinky, tasty national obsession: stinky tofu served three ways. Love it or hate it, there's just no igrnoring it.

(From left) Stuffed pepper pork buns; soya sauce innards galore; aiyu jelly and lemon

"QQ"- as the Taiwanese affectionally describes all things chewy: freshly made and cut taro balls（芋圓）at Jiufen

Meaty, crusty, sesame-dusted stuffed pepper pork buns（胡椒餅）made fresh daily and baked in hot canisters; spicy, crunchy, tender pounded deep-fried chicken steaks（炸雞排）larger than your face; flaky, crispy, multi-layered scallion pancakes（蔥抓餅）made to order are all but only a few of my favorites that are not to be missed at Taipei's lively night markets. Whether you are there for a late night snack or a street feast, you are in for a real visual and taste treat. Not to mention the plethora of traditional desserts and beverages... that's if you still have room for that. But if you are like me, all things sweet belong to that other stomach, right?

As I write, I am back to work from welcoming the New Year in Taiwan (still detoxing and cleansing from excessive alcohol and grease) and currently busy preparing for a significant career milestone - so please stay tuned in the next couple of weeks as I shortly resume making a mess at the Penthouse Kitchen... bringing you more exciting, easy, tasty homecooking recipes this fresh, new year!

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Eat, Surf, Cook | Bali

Dear home cooks,

It has been a couple of weeks since my last entry. As some of you might have figured, Alvin's Penthouse Kitchen took some time off, but has hardly stopped cooking or gorging while on vacation!

On an unrelenting quest for adventure, my holiday this month took me back to the enchanting Bali, nearly six months since my last visit. Aspiring to pick up a new sport and a rather extreme challenge, I signed up for a week-long surfing course by the crashing shores of laid-back Kuta, West Bali.

In just days, I experienced the high of standing up on a surf board, the adrenaline rush of successfully catching and riding a rapidly breaking wave. I have, on the other hand, also endured the power of nature as waves double my height slammed like speeding trains, occasionally sweeping me into a helpless heap of laundry tumbling under ferocious currents. The biggest lessons I learned? Get up no matter how many times you fall. And don't mess with Mother Nature.

Fragrant seeds, nuts and spices: the foundation of Balinese cooking

Aside from beach bumming like a surfer, I dove into the world of Balinese cooking. On multiple occasions I have heard this comment from fellow travellers regarding the lack of "good food" on this Island of Gods. And boy, are they sorely mistaken. Apart from the host of international cuisines catering to tourists, Bali boasts a complex, distinctly Balinese food culture, blending indigenous traditions and foreign influences with Indonesian regional cuisines.

Ayam Betutu, a popular Balinese dish

Unlike many parts of Indonesia, Bali's inhabitants are predominantly Hindu, with every aspect of Balinese life steeped in religious belief. Pork, though rarely found in majority Muslim Indonesia, is widely consumed in Bali, making this world-famous island even more magical for hog-lovers like me.

Until attending my cooking class, I had only a vague concept of Balinese food from exploring restorans, warungs, and masakan padangs. Specialties such as bebek betutu, ikan pepes, and sate lilit feature prominently in many restaurants alongside Indonesian favorites like nasi goreng and sop buntut. Rice is consumed almost every meal, with an incredibly complex blend of spices permeating every element of a Balinese dish and its mesmerizing array of spicy sambals.

So what exactly makes Balinese cuisine so remarkable? I decided to find my answers by learning it hands-on. From candlenut to the torch ginger, we learn the basics of Balinese flavors and the base wangen - or fragrant spice paste - used in all ceremonial foods and most everyday dishes. We grind our own ingredients and cook off at the wok station, getting our hands "dirty" massaging meat and tossing salads, finally culminating to a feast of nine dishes all created from scratch.

Grinding spices the traditional way!

Paket Gurame Bumbu Oles

Not only did I walk out will a full belly, but also returned home with a deeper understanding, craving and respect for Balinese food. I look forward to experimenting at home at Alvin's Penthouse Kitchen and sharing with you all!

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