Orecchiette with Eggplant and Italian Sausage | 意式肉腸茄子貓耳朵麵

附中文食譜

Summer in Rome conjures up images of red-checkered tables and chairs spilling onto the sidewalk, of food lovers dining and drinking well into the evening, of lively farmers markets carrying the bounty of Italy's growing season - all alongside imposing ruins of Ancient Rome.

A stroll through the compact yet complete Circus Maximus Farmers Market will take you on a culinary journey through the sights and smells of an Italian summer. Emerald green zucchini, deep purple aubergines and bursting red, candy-sweet tomatoes of all shapes and sizes meet the pungent aroma of cured meats and fresh made stracciatella di bufala. Ristorantes and trattorias around town offer up seasonal specials, showcasing the freshest of local, in-season ingredients.

Interestingly, I have not always had the same appreciation for Italian cuisine. In my early years of travel I have had my fair share of dismal Italian food, falling victim for obvious tourist traps that were more concerned about turning over tables than food. I was confounded, disappointed, my experience once so marred by droopy, soggy, skimpy pizza that I left questioning what Italian food was.

Falling in love with Trastevere, Rome [Summer 2016]

It wasn't until recently as my passion and curiosity for cooking grew that I started understanding and truly appreciating the essence of great italian food: simplicity, highlighted by the freshest, seasonal ingredients.

Over the years I trailed off the beaten path, exploring the nooks and crannies of Rome and beyond, tasting local treats and regional dishes along the way. My discoveries are as ground-breaking as they are elemental. Whether it is tagliatelle amatriciana, a classic pizza margherita, or a simple antipasto of burratina affumicata, the connection is clear: all you need is a few good ingredients to make an amazing dish.

Call me crazy - never had it occurred to me before just how much tomatoes themselves contribute to the actual flavor of a tomato sauce until my last pizza in Rome - it was a transcendental moment. I was positively enlightened. Perhaps possessed. You get the idea.

Below is my take on a simple pasta dish I had as I explored Italy: Orecchiette con Melanzane e Salsiccia. Little bite-sized orecchiette (literally "small ears" in Italian) makes a wonderful vehicle to hold the chunky sauce, although any kind of pasta will do. The tomato sauce can be made in large batches ahead of time and frozen for later use; recipe as follows:

Classic Homemade Tomato Sauce | Sugo al Pomodoro

What you'll need...
200g orecchiette
2 sweet Italian sausage with fennel, casing removed
1 small eggplant, diced into bite-sized cubes
8 cherry tomatoes, halved
1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
Classic Homemade Tomato Sauce
Grated pecorino or Parmesan cheese, for garnish

Directions...
1. Toss eggplant with one teaspoon of salt and drain for a few minutes on paper towel. Bring a salted pot of water to boil, cook pasta till al dente. Drain, reserving a small amount of pasta water.

2. Heat oil in a skillet over medium low heat, add sausage. Crumble the sausage and cook until beginning to brown. Pat the moisture off the eggplant and add to the sausage. Cook to soften, partially covered, about 6 minutes.

3. Add homemade tomato sauce and cherry tomatoes, stir to combine and cook till heated through. Add some pasta water if necessary.

4. Stir in cooked orecchiette and season to taste with salt and pepper. Plate and top with grated cheese. Buon appetito!

《意式肉腸茄子貓耳朵麵》

材料：

貓耳朵麵  200 克

意式肉腸  2 條 除去腸衣
茄子  1 小個
車厘茄  8 個 切半

初榨橄欖油   1 湯匙
自家製意式番茄醬
芝士  隨個人喜好

做法：
1. 茄子切成小丁，撒上 1 茶匙鹽拌勻出水。
2. 滾水裡加鹽及意粉，煮至彈牙撈起備用。可保留少量意粉水備用。
3. 橄欖油用中慢火燒熱，加入意式肉腸，用鏟剁碎並煎至呈金黃色。
4. 茄子用吸水紙印乾，加入平鍋跟肉腸一起煮至軟身，約 6 分鐘。
5. 加入自家製意式番茄醬和車厘茄拌勻，有需要的話可加少量意粉水。
6. 番茄醬滾後拌入貓耳朵麵，拌勻再作調味關火即成。
7. 上碟後隨意撒上芝士，再配上一杯白酒，好好品嚐！

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Classic Homemade Tomato Sauce | 自家製意式番茄醬

附中文食譜

Supermarkets these days stock an aisle full of pasta sauces, and tomato sauces alone - with the myriad of brands and permutations - make up the bulk of these often overpriced commercial products. Tomato sauces are infinitely useful in Italian home cooking, but before you head down to your grocers to grab a jar of that stuff next time, consider making your own!

In Italy most home cooks would swear by using fresh, summer tomatoes for their sauce, but if you live in a place where tomatoes are consistently bland and overpriced like I do, go for a tin of whole plum tomatoes or chopped tomatoes for a money- and time-saving short cut.

Me frolicking in every home cook's wonderland: Borough Market, London

Heirloom tomato galore at Borough Market, London

A great tomato sauce should be able to stand on its own without much adornment and excessive seasoning, as some purists may say. No herbs, no onions, no vinegar, no wine; just sugar, salt, olive oil, and tomatoes. Pure tomatoey goodness. But if you are like me who loves full-on flavor, experiment with different seasonings and create your own flavor profile!  

Homemade tomato sauce is simple and quick, and it freezes well. So make a big batch ahead of time and you will always have some ready when you need some. Here is my own go-to recipe. I sometimes throw in a squirt of  ketchup for a sweeter, more Japanese-style tomato sauce (ready for a Purist onslaught). Try it out and it might just surprise you. I often finish my sauce with some fresh cherry tomatoes for some extra chunkiness.

Create other dishes using this tomato sauce:
Grilled Eggplant Parmesan
Orecchiette with Eggplant and Italian Sausage

Make homemade tomato sauce from fresh whole tomatoes or the canned variety for ease

What you'll need...
1 tin (800 g / 28 oz) chopped tomatoes
1 1/2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
4 garlic cloves, minced
1 small yellow onion, finely chopped
Pinch of red pepper flakes
2 bay leaves 
Fresh or dried herbs to taste (eg. sage, rosemary, thyme, oregano)
2 stems of fresh basil, thyme, or rosemary
Salt and pepper, to taste
Sugar, to taste

6-8 cherry tomatoes, halved (optional)
2 teaspoons tomato paste (optional)

1. Heat oil in a large saucepan on medium-low heat, add chopped onions and cook until translucent and tender. Stir in garlic, red pepper flakes, and any dried herbs and cook for another two minutes until fragrant.

2. Tip in the tomatoes, bay leaves, salt and pepper, bring to a slow boil then reduce heat and let simmer, uncovered, for 20 min, stirring occasionally, until sauce is reduced.

3. Stir in cherry tomatoes (if using) and add stem of basil or other fresh herbs and submerge in sauce for another 10 minutes. Test the sauce and add sugar to cut the acidity. Season to taste with tomato paste if desired.

4. When finished, discard bay leaves and stem of basil. Enjoy the sauce as is with your favorite pasta or use it in a variety of dishes!

Note: Use a immersion blender to puree the sauce for a smoother sauce; otherwise, leave it chunky! Keep refrigerated for up to one week, or keep separate batches in freezer for later use.

Flavor and texture is derived from reducing the sauce

《自家製意式番茄醬》

材料：
番茄  1 罐 （800 克）
初榨橄欖油  1 1/2 湯匙
蒜頭  4 瓣  （切碎）
洋蔥  1 小個  （切碎）
乾辣椒碎  適量
各種香草  隨意  （乾或新鮮）
月桂葉  2 片
新鮮羅勒葉 、百里香、或迷迭香  2  枝

鹽和黑胡椒  適量

砂糖  適量

車厘茄  6-8 個  切半（可免）

番茄膏  2 茶匙（可免）

做法：

1. 橄欖油用中慢火燒熱，下洋蔥煮至軟身。

2. 加入蒜、乾辣椒碎、及任何乾香草，多煮約兩分鐘。

3. 加入罐裝番茄、月桂葉、鹽和黑胡椒並拌勻，待滾後轉慢火煮約 20 分鐘。

4. 加入已切好的小番茄和整枝羅勒葉，繼續煮約 10 分鐘至完全收水。

5. 試味。如番茄醬偏酸，可加糖調整。

6. 可隨個人喜好加入番茄膏調味。

7. 把羅勒和月桂葉拔掉並扔掉即成！可隨意炮製各式各樣的意大利菜式！

備註：番茄醬可冷藏一星期，或分批雪藏。

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Gourmet Skillet Spinach Mac 'n' Cheese

附中文食譜

Okay, let's get straight to the point - Mac 'n' Cheese ain't the healthiest food out there, nor is it ever pretending to be. But it is so downright scrumptious that we should all just indulge once a while. After all, it gives us another reason to exercise... right?
Right.

Well, the good news is at home you do have the choice to easily create a mac 'n' cheese from scratch your way that is lighter without sacrificing anything that makes a great mac 'n' cheese what it is.

Every time I set foot on New York City, I cannot help but get seduced into artisan cheese shops, their pungent aroma guiding me like a beacon. Many of these gourmet meccas also serve up grilled cheese and delectable mac 'n' cheese. On my recent food crawl in East Village, a sudden spring shower had me ducking under an awning for shelter. As I looked up, there I stood right before S'MAC, a tiny storefront specializing wholly in the almighty mac 'n' cheese. Well, I guess fate has it all planned out.

Beecher's serves up their "World's Best" Mac & Cheese

Beecher's Handmade Cheese (Union Square)
900 Broadway, New York, NY 10003

Murray's Cheese Shop and Bar (Greenwich Village)
264 Bleecker St, New York, NY 10014

S'MAC (East Village)
345 E 12th St, New York, NY 10003

Macaroni and cheese these days manifests itself in so many varied ways that long gone are the days when good old mac 'n' cheese only comes in a box with fluorescent orange powdered cheese mix. Whether it is Brie, Cheddar, Gouda, Manchego, or a combination, the cheese defines your mac 'n' cheese. You can load up on garlic and herbs, go green with broccoli, portobello and quinoa, toss in chicken or chorizo, make it gluten-free or vegan, add a touch of Cajun or even an Indian twist - the possibilities are endless. Despite all the permutations, one thing remains constant that makes this American classic truly irresistible: the dreamy creaminess and cheesiness.

My kitchen now equipped with cast iron skillets (my latest obsession), I am determined to make a mean mac 'n' cheese from scratch. I opted for 2% fat milk and went light on cheese and butter; packed in a sizable amount of baby spinach and added just a hint of Roquefort for a grown-up twist; then finally, a crispy homemade Parmesan breadcrumb to top it all - making a macaroni and cheese that is just scrumptiously delicious.

P.S. I promise to get on the treadmill... maybe another day.





What you'll need...
2 cups elbow macaroni, cavatappi, or sea shells
3 garlic cloves, minced
3 shallots or 1 small onion, finely chopped
1 1/2 tablespoon butter
2 tablespoon all-purpose flour
1 cup low fat milk
2 large handfuls of baby spinach
3/4 scant cup freshly grated Manchego cheese
2 tablespoon blue cheese, such as Roquefort, crumbled (optional)
Pinch of nutmeg* (optional)
Pinch of paprika

For the quick Homemade Seasoned Parmesan Breadcrumbs recipe, click here!

Directions...

1. Preheat oven to 200C/400F.

Bring a pot of salted water to boil, add pasta and cook until just shy of al dente, 6 to 7 minutes. Meanwhile, microwave milk on HIGH until warm, about 60 seconds.

 

2. Melt butter in a cast iron skillet or saucepan over medium-low heat, add shallots and garlic and sauté until fragrant, about two minutes. Add flour and, stirring constantly with a whisk, cook until smooth, one minute.

3. Gradually whisk in warm milk and cook for 4 to 5 minutes, until thickened and smooth. Using your hands, roughly rip handfuls of baby spinach and fold into the milk mixture. Off the heat as soon as the spinach begins to wilt.

4. Add the cheeses and season with salt, pepper, paprika, and nutmeg. Add the cooked macaroni and stir well. Pour into individual sized gratin dishes if not using cast iron. Sprinkle the breadcrumb mixture over the top of the pasta. Bake for 20 minutes or until golden and bubbly.  

Serve immediately, sauce it up with hot sauce and savor every luscious bite!

*Note: though not a must, adding just a pinch of nutmeg enhances and rounds off the creamy cheese sauce with a surprisingly bright, earthy tone.

《焗烤芝士菠菜通心粉》 

材料：

永不吃膩的經典焗芝士通心粉！

通心粉  200 克
蒜頭  3 瓣（切碎）
乾蔥  3 個（切碎）
牛油  1 1/2 湯匙
麵粉  2 湯匙
低脂奶  240 毫升
幼嫩菠菜  200 克
曼徹格芝士碎  75 克
藍紋芝士碎  10 克
肉豆蔻粉  少許
辣椒粉  少許

自製香草帕爾馬麵包糠：
多士麵包  2-3 塊（已放數天的更合適）
帕爾馬芝士碎  25 克
橄欖油  少許
香草碎  少許
蒜鹽  少許
黑胡椒  少許

預熱焗爐至 150C / 300F。用食物處理器將所有材料打碎，然後平鋪在烤盤上焗約5分鐘，直至金黃香脆。取出晾涼後置密封盒內可冷藏存放四星期。

做法：
1. 預熱焗爐至 200C / 400F。
2. 滾水裡加鹽，煮意粉時間約比包裝上指示的少1-2分鐘，煮好撈起備用。
3. 牛奶用微波爐稍為叮熱，約1分鐘。
4. 牛油用慢火煮溶，放入乾蔥及蒜蓉炒香。
5. 倒入麵粉，攪拌約1分鐘，形成均勻的麵粉糊。
6. 慢慢倒入暖奶，期間不停攪拌至麵粉糊均勻融化。融化好了以後用中小火持續加熱和攪拌，直到醬汁收乾呈濃稠狀。
7. 菠菜用手稍微撕碎，再放入醬汁。攪拌好後關火。
8. 加入芝士，持續攪拌至開始融化。此時可以試味並加入適當調味。
9. 將煮好的意粉拌入醬汁中，置入烤盤再撒上自製香草帕爾馬麵包糠。放入焗爐烤約20分鐘直至表面金黃香脆、內裏醬汁沸騰，香味四溢即成！

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Fettuccine with Creamy Onion Mushroom Pork Chops

Okay, so you may think that I'll never be caught dead with a can of Campbell's in my hand. That is indeed true to a very large extent. But hey, on a clammy winter day when you are time-pressed and in need of some TLC, cracking open that creamy can of Campbell's that's been sitting quietly and patiently in the rear of the pantry might just do the trick.

Like anything from a can, using canned soup doesn't have to be boring or bland. This is the time when you gourmet things up a little bit with some added basic ingredients and a touch of fresh herbs. 

And so I dashed to the supermarket for some half-lean, fresh bone-in pork chops and cremini mushrooms and ended up with easy breezy creamy pork chops served two ways, two different days. Instead of pan-frying the chops, I deployed my Panini Grill for a speedy way to flash cook my chops before dunking them to a simmer in the creamy sauce, keeping them still tender, moist, juicy, and minimizing the mess and cook time!

Smother your tender chops and pasta with creamy onion and mushroom sauce!

To prepare...
Fettucine, for two servings
4 bone-in pork chops
1 can (305g) condensed cream of onion
1/3 cup water
1/2 lb. (227g) cremini mushroom, cleaned and sliced
1 onion, brown, yellow, or red, roughly chopped
3 cloves of garlic
Butter or cooking oil
Fresh thyme sprigs
Parsley, chopped, for garnish
Salt and fresh ground black pepper

1. Cook fettucine al dente according to package instructions in well-salted water.

2. Sprinkle pork chops with salt and pepper. Grill on preheated Panini Grill lined with baking paper until barely done, flipping once, about 3 minutes. Reserve drippings. Alternatively, pan fry on skillet with vegetable oil over medium-high heat for about 10 minutes or until browned on both sides.

 

3. In a saucepan, melt butter over medium heat. Saute garlic and onion with mushrooms and thyme. Set aside.

4. Stir cream of onion and water in saucepan and bring to a boil. Add pork drippings, mushrooms mixture, and pork chops and simmer until the pork is cooked through. Drain pasta and serve topped with pork chops and creamy onion mushroom sauce. Buon appetito!

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Serve with sauteed sugar snap peas and baked sweet potato for a lower-carb take

Mentaiko Pasta | Cod Roe Pasta

Browsing through Lonely Planet Japan, one line sticks in my head: "...drawing influences from the entire continent, the Japanese have spent millennia taking in and refining the cultural bounties of Asia to produce something distinctly Japanese." Japan's exceptional ability to assimilate, adopt, and ameliorate foreign ideas and creating something uniquely their own while keeping its deep-rooted traditions intact is truly fascinating.

In fact, Japan's geographic scope of cultural influences far extends beyond Asia, as is particularly evident in its well-established culinary arena. From beers to bread and pastry-making, from pasta and pizza to curry, Japan has absorbed influences and mastered techniques from India to Italy and, in turn, successfully created culinary specialties that are as authentic as they are distinctly Japanese. This simple Mentaiko Pasta (明太子パスタ) is a case in point.

Consisting of as few as just a couple of main ingredients and requiring no more than ten minutes to prepare, this popular dish is a classic example of East meets West and a testimony that simplicity rules. Mentaiko, essentially fresh pollack or cod roe that is brined and seasoned (color may range from pink to bright red, and flavor from mild to hot), is the star of this dish, its brininess balanced out by the creaminess of olive/avocado oil and butter, while shisho leaves offer up an interesting herbaceous note that contrasts impeccably with the intense "essence of the sea." Each ingredient practically sings on your tongue as you savor every mouthful!

Simplicity - and fusion - at its best. Now, care for chopsticks... or a fork?

I recently returned home to my penthouse kitchen set to work with mentaiko fresh from the supermarket in Japan. While some home cooks swear by heavy cream and even mayo, I opt for avocado oil (and some butter) for slightly more heart-healthy and - in my opinion - even better results.

To prepare...
400g dried spaghetti
1/2 cup, approx. 80g, mentaiko (I used mild mentaiko)
1/4 cup avocado or olive oil
Black pepper
1 tablespoon butter
Green shiso leaves*
Generous sprinkling of nori strips
Dried chili pepper, finely sliced, for garnish (optional)

*Note: if unavailable, substitute shiso with other aromatics such as Vietnamese mint as in my case, which works wonderfully!

1. Boil pasta al dente according to package directions.

2. Cut each roe sac in half, squeeze and scoop out the roe from each half, discarding the membrane. Add avocado/olive oil and black pepper and gently stir to combine.

3. When the pasta is done, drain thoroughly and add to the bowl with the mentaiko sauce. Add the butter and toss until butter is melted and each strand of pasta gets an even coating of sauce. Serve garnished with nori, shiso, and chili slivers. Bon appetit いただきます!

Adapted from Marc Matsumoto's recipe on No Recipes

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Sausage and Sundried Tomato Pasta Toss with Broccoli and Feta

After two consecutive weeks busy at work, constantly on the move, eating out and staying up late, I yearn to retire to my penthouse kitchen for some therapeutic cooking time. Yet as I squirm in bed shortly after passing out from fatigue, I am certain tonight is one of those nights when time and energy are excruciatingly scarce to cook up a storm. The only storm there is is brewing outside my window. I groan as soreness radiates from every fiber of my body, still trying to make sense of where I am as my ceiling spins.

Appalled by the thought of crawling out through the din and mobs in search for food, I decide to adhere to my principles and make do with what I have in the pantry to create something comforting, fulfilling, something least exerting.

I thaw some gourmet British sausages I often reserve in the freezer either for a fancy brunch or for times like this. I pull out a remaining half head of broccoli, some sundried tomatoes and feta, harvest some fresh herbs before the rain pours; and I think I am all set for a no-frills pasta dish that effectively combines all the major food groups in one.

To prepare...

Pasta, your favorite (I use this toothsome Radiatori I found in France. J'adore its texture!)
2 links of pork or chicken sausages (I use UK Bramley apple & pork sausages)
1/2 head of broccoli, cut into florets, stalk kept for other uses
5 pieces of sundried tomatoes, reconstituted and roughly chopped
4 garlic cloves, minced
Extra virgin olive oil
Thyme, fresh or dried
Crushed red pepper flakes (optional)
Salt and pepper

Feta cheese, crumbled (also tasty with shaved parmesan!)

1. Cook pasta in a large pot of salted, boiling water. When pasta has 2 minutes left until al dente, add broccoli florets. Drain, reserving 1 cup of pasta liquid, set aside.

2. Meanwhile, parboil or partially cook sausages in a skillet over medium high heat, approx. 4-5 mins. Remove to a plate then slice when cool enough to handle.
  

3. Add olive oil to skillet. Over medium heat, briefly saute garlic, then add sausage and thyme, stirring constantly until sausage is lightly browned. Add sundried tomatoes and toss.

4. Pour pasta and broccoli into the skillet and toss. Add reserved pasta liquid half cup at a time as seen appropriate. Season with salt, pepper, and crushed red pepper flakes according to taste. Drizzle in more olive oil if necessary and toss to coat.
   
5. Scoop into bowls and top with crumbled feta cheese plus more fresh thyme if using, et voilà!

Enjoy the flavorsome medley of browned sausage, garlic, sundried tomatoes and creamy feta in this quick, last-minute pasta!


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Spaghetti Aglio, Olio e Peperoncino

My go-to pasta recipe when creamy and tomato sauce-based pasta just doesn't float my boat that day.

 

As the name implies, this pasta consists of just three key ingredients - garlic, oil, and chili - a versatile recipe that can be adapted depending on what's in stock in the pantry. Easy peasy, and totally delicious with a kiss of heat.

I had some naturally red, chili-infused Spaghetti Peperoncino that I bought in Rome sitting in my pantry and, well, what else better than to kick it up a notch with garlic and chili? Rather than using dried, crushed chili pepper flakes, I always prefer fresh Thai bird-eye chili for its vibrant color and fieriness. The fumes that immediately arise from sauteeing garlic with Thai chili are truly intoxicating. To add interest I also tossed in a red onion, some mushrooms and a handful of cherry tomatoes.

To prepare:

1. Peel 4-5 garlic cloves and cut into thin slices. Slice one red onion and chop 1-2 Thai bird-eye chili. Adjust quantity and de-seed according to level of heat desired. Don't underestimate these chilis!

2. Wash and slice mushrooms. Cut cherry tomatoes in half lengthwise.

3. Heat oil in pan on medium heat and sautee garlic, onion, and chili until garlic turns golden. Remove and set aside. 

4. Meanwhile, boil pasta in salted water.

5. In the same pan, sautee mushrooms and season with salt, pepper, and rosemary. Remove and set aside.

6. Drain pasta and add to pan.  On medium heat, add olive oil and tomatoes and briefly stir through. Toss in the garlic, onions, chili and mushrooms and combine to allow the flavors to mingle. Season with salt, black pepper and rosemary to taste. Serve and enjoy the heat!

[Any thoughts or comments? Please share with me!]