Heirloom Tomato & Stracciatella Bruschetta | 復古番茄意大利芝士蒜香多士

附中文食譜

Every summer, farmers markets everywhere hustle and bustle with chefs and home cooks, beaming with color and radiating a vibrant energy seemingly distinctive to this season. Even with nothing in particular on my shopping list, I make time for a farmers market visit - if not to check out what's in season, at least to remind myself the simple fact that in many parts of the world, seasons still influence and inform our day-to-day decisions on what to eat.

Besides the overflowing crates of fragrant peaches and nectarines and punnets of summer berries are always a festive array of heirloom tomatoes. Red, brown, green, yellow, zebra-striped - heirloom tomatoes come in all shapes, sizes and colors and, unlike the store-bought hybrids, are each so unique that often no two are the same. Many a times I find myself curious about these gnarly, lumpy yet gorgeous fruits. So, what exactly are heirloom tomatoes?

Heirloom tomatoes are basically open-pollinated varieties of tomatoes that have been passed down for generations without crossbreeding. This is in contrast to typical supermarket tomatoes, which have been carefully bred to carry particular traits: things like higher productivity, enhanced durability, uniform shape for ease of packaging, greater resistance to pests and diseases - often at the expense of flavor. Have you ever swooned over a perfectly blemish-free, luscious-looking tomato, taken it home and taken a bite, only to find it mealy and completely tasteless? Unfortunately, that has happened to me all too often, seeing that I live in Hong Kong. Heirloom varieties, on the other hand, are genetically unique and produce fruits that carry distinct flavor and texture, widely believed to be superior to their mass-marketed hybrid counterparts. The "disadvantage"? Thinner skin, shorter shelf-life, lower yield and greater susceptibility to disease - all of which logically make up for a heftier price tag.

With all that said, are heirloom tomatoes worth the price? Eager to find out just how different they are, I finally turned a blind eye to the price tag (often more than double that of supermarket hybrids), wrapped each individual tomato in bubble wrap, and with the greatest care transported them as carry-on luggage thousands of miles away like some museum relic from New York's Union Square Greenmarket to my kitchen. All was smooth until my suitcase flopped and my bag plopped on the ground on my last stretch home. It was a miracle that all my tomatoes made it home whole - not as sauce. Was it hard to slice into my first ever heirloom tomato? Oh yes, it was just about as hard as cutting into the most revered giant white peach from Japan (I made sure they all got a well-deserved photo shoot beforehand, just in case).

The verdict? Yes, these heirloom tomatoes were remarkably juicy, fleshy, bursting with flavor that slightly differed one variety from another, with a skin so thin it was nothing like the typical hybrids I was used to. All that aside, it is important to take note that store-bought hybrid varieties are not necessarily inherently inferior. A well-grown hybrid cultivated on land that is tended with care and quality in mind can be just as good as any well-grown heirloom variety. Any ordinary supermarket tomatoes I have bought in London and Italy are still a far cry from whatever I can find in Hong Kong. Hence, I personally think heirloom tomatoes are worth the price in so far as a treat exclusive to the summer season (chances are any heirloom tomatoes found in winter are out of season).

Some foods are exceptional - if not better - enjoyed in their most natural state, adorned with nothing more than perhaps a crack of sea salt and black pepper and a light drizzle of extra virgin olive oil; uncooked and unmasked by complications. One prime example is the prized heirloom tomato.

Another example is Stracciatella di Bufala - fresh cream thickened with thin strands of mozzarella - a sexily milky, erotically oozy Italian cheese that I fell in love with at first bite years ago dining at Eataly, Rome (their stracciatella is made on site and in plain sight). In a nut shell, stracciatella is Burrata without the outer shell of mozzarella - the buttery center that is as good straight out of the tub as plopped on a wood-fired pizza or simply spread on toast.

The creaminess of stracciatella pairs harmoniously with sweet, fleshy heirloom tomatoes, allowing each to shine through beautifully. When layered on crusty, garlic-rubbed toast, the result is pure magic. The bread, of course, plays a vital role in tying together this magic. For me the perfect bruschetta will be lightly charred at the crust, crunchy on the exterior and soft and chewy inside, where a faint yeasty sourness meets the grassy, peppery notes of fine olive oil and a hint of garlic. Sometimes, magic is this simple.

What you'll need...
Sourdough or any crusty bread, sliced 1.5 cm thick
Extra virgin olive oil
2 cloves fresh garlic
140 g Stracciatella or Burrata cheese
2-3 medium sized heirloom tomatoes, sliced 1 cm thick
Baby spinach, arugula, and/or basil (optional)
Sea salt and black pepper

Directions...
1. Toast the bread on both sides until lightly charred on a preheated grill or grill pan. Drizzle with olive oil. If using a skillet, spray or drizzle bread with olive oil then toast until lightly charred on both sides.

2. Cut the garlic cloves on a diagonal. As soon as the bread is ready, rub both sides with the garlic cut-side down to lightly flavor the toast. Using a spoon, dollop and spread stracciatella over the bread. Arrange some baby greens of choice on top and layer on the sliced tomatoes. Finish with a crack of sea salt and black pepper. For an extra herbaceous note, top sparingly with a sprinkle of basil chiffonade.

【 復古番茄意大利芝士蒜香多士 】

季節限定、獨一無二的「復古番茄」Heirloom tomato，千里迢迢由 New York farmers market 護送回家，配上超 creamy 的意大利芝士 Stracciatella, 滋味無窮！要品嚐大自然最原始的味道，就係咁簡單！

材料
酸種麵包 (Sourdough)                    切 1.5 公分厚
初榨橄欖油                                      適量
新鮮蒜瓣                                           2 瓣
絲翠奇亞芝士 (Stracciatella)        140 克（可以布拉塔芝士取替）
復古番茄                                          2-3 隻，切片約 1 公分厚
嫩菠菜葉、火箭菜、羅勒葉       隨個人喜好
海鹽和黑胡椒                                 適量

做法
1. 預熱烤盤，把麵包兩面烤至金黃色和輕微焦香後撒上橄欖油。如使用平底鍋，先在麵包雙面塗上橄欖油，再在熱鍋上烤至兩面呈金黃色。
2. 將蒜瓣切開，以切口磨擦於烤好的麵包表面。
3. 在麵包上塗上絲翠奇亞芝士，再放上嫩菠菜葉或火箭菜（隨個人喜好）和切片蕃茄。完成後撒上適量鹽和胡椒作調味。喜歡香草的話，可撒上少量羅勒葉絲。

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Caprese Croissant with Speck and Garlic Balsamic Mayo

Think juicy, sweet vine-ripened tomatoes, and fresh, moist mozzarella melting underneath a blanket of fragrant, garden-fresh basil - all wedged into a buttery, flaky, toasted croissant... I think you get the idea.

How it has not occurred to me until now that the Insalata Caprese actually resembles the colors of the Italian flag, I don't know. But what I do know is that in Italy, this genuinely Neapolitan antipasto is a tribute to the essence of fresh ingredients that is almost emblematic of the country's renowned gastronomy. The key is to keep the dish simple, dressed at most with a touch of olive oil, and never any balsamic vinegar or pesto.

Fresh produce from Italy. A few quality ingredients are all you need for a mouthwatering sandwich.

When serving this Italian classic in a breakfast sandwich, I think we are allowed to be bold and play it up just a little. I recently returned from northern Italy with a bunch of produce and groceries, among which are the ever important balls of mozzarella and parcels of deli-sliced prosciutto.

Hunger strikes, and the idea of a "croissan'wich" comes. Perfect to jumpstart a sluggish weekend or as a hangover cure, this "recipe" is really more an idea than a proper recipe. If you swear by dressing your sandwich with a spread, try a light smear of tangy Garlic Balsamic Mayo that takes only minutes to make. And if you swear by meat, trade greasy bacon for a couple slices of speck (Italian cured and smoked meat) ...and voilà, we just have an irresistable spin on the classic BLT with an unmistakably Italian flair.

Are you in yet?

To prepare...
2 croissants1 ball (125 g) of fresh mozzarella, sliced 1/3" thick
Small, vine-ripened tomatoes, sliced (I used pomodoro picadilly)
Fresh basil leaves
4 slices of speck (optional)

For the Garlic Balsamic Mayo... (optional)
1 tablespoon mayonnaise
1 small garlic clove, minced
1/2 teaspoon balsamic glaze (or balsamic vinegar)

Got no speck? Substitute with turkey, ham, or some good ol' bacon

Oh yeah... feels good

1. Preheat oven to 200C/375F. In a small bowl, mix together mayonnaise, garlic and balsamic glaze and set aside. Slice the croissants lengthwise without separating the two halves. Lightly spread mayo mixture on the bottom half of the croissant. 

2. Layer on speck, followed by tomatoes and mozzarella, insulating the tomatoes well from direct contact with the croissant to avoid soggy buns.

3. Pop the sandwiches into the oven open-faced for 8-10 minutes or until the cheese begins to melt and croissant is nicely toasted without charring. Remove from oven and top mozzarella with whole basil leaves. Enjoy the sensation of stretching cheese and the explosion of fresh flavors! Buon appetito and have a great weekend.

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The Thanksgiving Sandwich, with Caramelized Onions

I have many reasons to be grateful this year. Friendships come and go; some fade over time, some bud and grow unexpectedly, and some are made to last. I was invited to two hearty thanksgiving dinners this year, one on a dear colleague's handsome terrace near downtown Hong Kong, another on Thanksgiving Day in suburban Piedmont, California, at the charming family home of a dear friend whom I have known since college. 

Thanksgiving this year is particularly memorable, not only because I have finally had my first official turkey dinner, but also because of the friendships that it strengthens and creates, the love that goes into preparing this age-old tradition, and the warmth that travels around the table. Need I mention the food - the turkey, the scrumptious sides, the stuffing, the homemade cranberry sauce, the pies (my college friend Kelley prepared not one, but five pies - namely pecan, pumpkin, and apple pie - It was like a salacious fantasy come true). Having the chance to work alongside Kelley's mother - a remarkably loving, gentle, and soft-spoken woman - made the night all the more special.

Kelley and her mother, Miye, made sure no one walked out hungry

Of course, neither nights did I leave hungry nor empty-handed. Both my colleague Ava and Kelley's mother spoiled their guests with an inexhaustible array of food and leftovers. I greedily lugged home turkey, stuffing and all the works, which I happily devoured over the course of several days. For variety's sake, I changed up the presentation a bit, and one obvious way to go is the almighty Thanksgiving sandwich. 

To up the ante, I topped the fixings with caramelized onions - the tender, candy-sweet-and-savory topping that complements beautifully the savoriness of turkey stuffing and plays off the tart sweetness of cranberry sauce. An already luscious sandwich just sky-rocketed to the next level.

To prepare...

Several slices of hearty farmer's bread, grilled or toasted

Turkey meat
Stuffing

Salad greens

Cranberry sauce

Caramelized onions

For the caramelized onions...
2 onions (yellow, brown, or red), sliced
1 tablespoon butter, extra-virgin olive oil, or a mix

1-2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar

Brown sugar (optional)

Water

Salt

Pile on the icing on the cake!

1. Heat olive oil and butter in a wide, thick-bottomed pan on medium high heat. Add onions to pan and cook very slowly on medium low heat for 15-20 minutes, stirring occasionally to prevent onions from sticking and burning. Scrape up any browned bits from the bottom of the pan as the caramelization proceeds.

2. When onions are softened and tinged golden, add sugar and cook a further 10 minutes. If necessary, add a little water to prevent onions from drying out or sticking. When onions have reached a desired shade of brown, deglaze pan with balsamic vinegar and salt onions to taste.

3. Stack your sandwich and top with cranberry sauce and loads of caramelized onions. Enjoy the taste of Thanksgiving!

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No-Mayo Chicken Avocado Salad

As high summer continues to drag on here in Hong Kong, for what seems to be a longer duration each year, I am on some kind of roll cranking out dish after dish inspired by the season of fun in the sun. Here is a little twist on the traditional American-style Chicken Salad - a favorite sandwich filler that brings back memories of college days - that is equally yummy without a pang of guilt.

Traditionally that creamy stuff is smothered in mayonnaise, jam-packed with calories and artery-clogging saturated fats. But today we are happily trading all that and more in for some heart-healthy fats and a boost of nutrients from the avocado and plain Greek yoghurt.

Packing my leftovers for lunch with corn tortillas!

Serve it in a wrap, a pita, a sandwich, on crackers, atop a salad, or straight up from the tub, this super easy chicken avocado salad is a crowd pleaser and makes for a great pack lunch on the go. The recipe is highly adaptable. Want more flavors, more crunch, more veggies? Toss in some celery, spring onion, parsley, cilantro, even radish for some vibrant colors. Use red onion at your discretion (not so much for me).

To prepare...
2 cups diced cooked chicken (I grilled mine with a ton of herbs)
1 ripe avocado, diced
1 cup shredded carrots
1/2 teaspoon celery seeds
1 clove of garlic, finely minced (for a less prominent garlicky punch, use 1/2 teaspoon of garlic powder)
1/4 cup plain yoghurt
A dash of Tobasco (optional)
Salt and pepper

1. In a large bowl, mash together diced avocado, yoghurt, garlic and seasoning.


2. Add chicken, carrots, and other veggies if using, stir to combine. Season the mixture to taste. A dash of Tobasco, as I discover, helps bring all the flavors together. Try it out!


3. Roll the chicken avocado salad up in a wrap; add additional toppings like lettuce and tomatoes. Stuff it in a pita pocket; spread it on a hoagie roll; dip it with tortilla chips... the possibilities are endless. Enjoy! 

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