Som Tum Thai: Green Papaya Salad | 泰式青木瓜沙律

附中文食譜

Thai food lovers will most certainly be no stranger to som tum (ส้มตำ) - or green papaya salad - the salad that is at once impossibly fiery and refreshingly crunchy; intensely savory and insanely tangy - in short, it is a kaleidoscope of explosive sensation on a plate.  

Som tum originates in Isaan, the northeastern region of Thailand bordering Laos (some may argue that the dish originally came from Laos), though it is now widely consumed across the country with a multitude of variations which may include salted crab, fermented fish paste, or green mango in place of papaya. What most of us come to recognize as the typical som tum is actually called "som tum thai" (ส้มตำไทย) - a classic version that is perhaps most palatable internationally as it does not contain any of the more pungent ingredients.

The core ingredients of a som tum are shredded green papaya, tomatoes, green long beans, dried shrimp, and peanuts, pounded together with chilies, fresh garlic, palm sugar, fish sauce, and juicy limes, all of which combine to create a perfect balance of salty, sweet, spicy, and sour. Som tum is almost always prepared with a large clay or wooden mortar and pestle - a must have in any Thai kitchen really - which allows for easy pounding, crushing, and melding of ingredients and flavors. After all, the word tum in som tum is derived from the verb "to pound" (and "sour" for "som"). I have attempted making som tum before by simply tossing the ingredients without a mortar and pestle and, trust me, the salad was just that - a bland, soul-less, "deconstructed" salad. 

Now, what if you haven't got space for an unwieldy mortar and pestle at home? Well, join the club. I may not have one, but instead make use of the resources at home and retrieved a large glass mixing bowl, paired it with my wooden cocktail muddler bought from the Japanese dollar store, and together they just worked wonders.

When it comes to prepping the green papaya, I have at one point or another observed chefs and street cart vendors in Bangkok shredding the green papayas by vigorously slashing and paring away the surface of the fruit, a traditional method that yields an intentionally coarse and uneven shred for extra crunch. My knife skills may be questionable, and I am in no hurry of slashing a finger or two, so I resort to my trustee grater and alternate between the medium and large-sized holes for that effortlessly rustic, crunchy result. 

For the most authentic result, it is ideal to sweeten the dish with Thai palm sugar, available at most southeast Asian grocery shops; if unavailable, substitute with soft light brown sugar for a "same same but different" caramelized taste. With sourness being a dominant flavor in som tum - as the name suggests - the use of fresh lime is essential for a citrusy tang to balance off the sweetness of palm sugar and saltiness of fish sauce and dried shrimp. It is also not uncommon to use a bit of tamarind water in addition to lime juice for a more complex note of sweetness and tartness, so give that a try!
 

On a different note, around this time of year, people all across Thailand would normally be gearing up for the Thai New Year celebrations. Under the ongoing Covid-19 pandemic, however, numerous Songkran events are cancelled, families are urged to stay in, the young are asked to avoid visiting their elderly family members in order to protect the most vulnerable, and international travel continues to be severely restricted. What is usually the most festive national holiday, doused with globally renowned ritual water splashing that draws tens of thousands of visitors each year, may present an oddly quiet scene this year. As with the rest of the planet, I hope that this global crisis will soon come to an end, and that life can resume its track as soon as possible for all.

With that said, sawadee pee mai krub!

Ingredients
Half a green papaya (about 2-3 cups shredded)
Half a small carrot
6 string beans or 2 long beans
1-2 small tomatoes or 6 cherry tomatoes
1-3 red bird’s eye chilies 
2 garlic cloves

1 1/2 tablespoons Thai palm sugar

1 1/2 tablespoons fish sauce

Juice of 1-2 Thai limes

2 tablespoons peanuts

1 tablespoon dried shrimp (optional)
 

Directions

1. In a small, dry frying pan, toast the peanuts over medium heat until fragrant and golden brown. Remove and set aside.

2. Peel and shred green papaya and carrot with a julienne peeler or a regular cheese grater with medium to large sized holes. Trim ends and cut long beans into 2-inch segments. Slice tomatoes into wedges, or halve the cherry tomatoes if using.

3. Cut each garlic clove into three pieces. Coarsely smash garlic and whole chilies in a mortar and pestle. Add the palm sugar, beans and tomatoes. Lightly pound to bruise the beans and break up the tomatoes, and ensure that the palm sugar is fully dissolved. Squeeze in the lime juice and fish sauce and pound to combine.

4. Add the green papaya, carrot, dried shrimp (if using), and toasted peanuts. Lightly pound and toss to combine. Check seasoning. The taste should be sweet and salty in perfect balance, with a sharp, sour and spicy tang. Plate up and enjoy fresh!

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【 泰式青木瓜沙律 】

Sawadee Pee Mai Krub！適逢泰國迎接新年，同大家分享地道前菜簡易食譜！青木瓜沙律 (ส้มตำ) 味道酸辣鮮甜又醒胃，往往叫人食得津津有味。就是使用街市常見用來煲湯的那種青木瓜，十元八塊就可以泡製爽脆新鮮的 Som Tum - 在家都能輕易造出正宗泰國風味！

材料：
青木瓜                 半個
甘筍                     半枝
長豆角                 2 條
小蕃茄                 1 個（或車厘茄 6 粒）
指天椒                 1 - 3 隻
蒜頭                     2 瓣
棕櫚糖                 1 1/2 湯匙
魚露                     1 1/2 湯匙
泰國青檸            1 - 2 個
花生                     2 湯匙
蝦米                     隨意
 
1. 花生用乾鍋烘香，備用。
2. 青木瓜和甘筍去皮刨絲，長角豆切段，番茄切件（車厘茄切半）。
3. 把蒜頭和指天椒摏碎。
4. 加長角豆、番茄和棕櫚糖輕輕摏碎至糖完全溶解。
5. 倒入魚露和新鮮青檸汁，拌勻來混合各種材料。
6. 加入青木瓜、甘筍絲、蝦米和花生，一邊繼續輕輕摏碎、一邊拌勻，令各樣材料更為入味。試味並再作適當調味，即成！

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Kor Moo Yang: Thai Grilled Pork Neck | 泰式燒豬頸肉

附中文食譜

My memories of Bangkok often conjure up images of lively, cacophonous markets; of thoroughfares routinely jammed with brightly colored cabs; of fearless motorbike taxis zipping dexterously through the traffic; and of course, images of the myriad street food the city is known for. Char-grilled pork skewers, Isaan sausages, fried chicken, soup noodles of all sorts, banana and egg roti are surely no strange sight to street food aficionados and starving food seekers in Bangkok.

Happy street food crawl in Happy Land Market, Bangkok

Turn this humble and inexpensive cut of pork into a delectable household favorite!

Fringing Happyland Center, a bustling food market frequented by only locals in the Bangkapi district, there is a street lined with fruit vendors, Thai bubble tea makers, a sweets and desserts stall, and countless other street food vendors that spill onto adjacent alleys. In one corner, a faded and slightly worn green metal open pit oven stands, spewing smoke into the already hot and muggy streets. Inside the oven are slabs of marinated pork neck, pork jowl, and juicy chicken legs grilling and glistening over hot charcoal, the meats occasionally turned and flipped and altogether replaced once cooked and ready for sale. There I always stand, about a meter away from the side, taking the sight and smells in, drooling while sweat profusely drips from my temples down my chin. I have been to this market more times than my fingers can count, in search for the most genuine street foods served to locals and priced for locals, but still this green oven captivates me every single time. 

Kor Moo Yang (คอหมูย่าง), or grilled pork neck, is to no surprise a Thai favorite found everywhere from food centers to streets and restaurants. In Hong Kong, this dish is served in just about every Thai restaurant, making up one of the few standard starters that every Hong Konger knows when going out for Thai food.

Pork neck is probably one of my favorite cuts of meat, layered with just the right balance of lean meat, fat, and muscle, giving a crunchy chew that is oh so flavorful even with the simplest marinade. Besides, pork neck is also much more forgiving than the leaner cuts so the chances of overcooking is rare.

Of all the street foods out there in Bangkok, Kor Moo Yang is one that is easy to replicate at home, even without a charcoal grill. Simply prepare the marinade and marinate the pork overnight, then pop the slabs into a hot oven and you will soon be swooning over the heavenly aroma of a Thai barbecue. The addition of palm sugar in the marinade not only adds depth and sweetness, but also increases the caramelization on the surface of the meat (I'll be first to dive shamelessly for the charred, crispy bits). As with most marinades, the following is just a guideline. Feel free to toss in some finely chopped kaffir lime leaf or shallots for variation in flavor! For those of us lucky enough to have a barbecue on a patio, this recipe is also perfect for a quick grill.  Try this marinade on chicken wings and pork chop!

Thinly slice pork neck at a 45° angle across the grain for best results

I swear this grilled pork neck is going to taste better than any you have tried in a restaurant. While the meat is already flavorful enough to enjoy on its own, the dish is not complete without a Nam Jim dipping sauce! Kor Moo Yang can go with just about any variation of Nam Jim. Click below for my recipe.

Nam Jim: Thai Dipping Sauce

What you'll need...
500 g pork neck
2-3 stalks lemongrass, white parts only, finely chopped
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
2 cilantro roots or 4 cilantro stems, chopped
2 teaspoons palm sugar
1 tablespoon oyster sauce
1 tablespoon fish sauce
Nam Jim

Directions...
1. Trim excess fat off the pork neck.

2. In a mortar and pestle or food processor, pound lemongrass, garlic, and cilantro roots or stems into a paste. Add palm sugar and pound until dissolved. Add oyster sauce and fish sauce and stir to combine. Pour marinade over the pork neck and coat well, refrigerate for at least two hours or overnight for best results.

3. Remove pork neck from the refrigerator about 20 minutes prior to cooking. Preheat oven to 200C/400F. Line a baking tray with baking paper and grill pork neck for 15 minutes. Flip and continue grilling for 10 minutes or until slightly charred on the outside. Cooking time will vary depending on the thickness of the pork neck.

4. Allow pork neck to rest for 5 minutes. To serve, slice the pork neck thinly across the grain, angling the knife at 45 degrees if the pork neck is particularly thin. Serve warm with Nam Jim. Enjoy!

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【 泰式燒豬頸肉 】

老老實實，有邊次去泰國餐廳唔點燒豬頸肉先？ 爽口彈牙、香口又惹味，只需預先醃好和焗爐一部，在家都能夠造出曼谷街頭、炭香四溢的正宗泰式燒豬頸肉！再配上自家製泰式酸辣蘸汁，風味絕佳。 這好可能是您食過最好吃的燒豬頸。

材料：
豬頸肉                      500 克
香茅                           2-3 根
蒜頭                           2 瓣
芫荽根部                  2 根（或以適量芫荽莖代替）
棕櫚糖                      2 茶匙
蠔油                           1 湯匙
魚露                           1 湯匙
泰式秘制酸辣蘸汁 

做法：
1. 把豬頸肉洗淨，將過多的脂肪除去備用。
2. 把香茅白色部份切成小圓圈後剁碎。將蒜瓣和芫荽根或莖剁碎。
3. 用研缽和研棒或攪拌機把香茅、蒜末、芫荽磨成蓉。
4. 加入椰糖，繼續磨至完全溶化。加入蠔油和魚露，拌勻。
5. 豬頸肉加入醃料，放進雪櫃醃 2 小時或過夜則最為理想。
6. 烤肉前先將醃好的豬頸肉拿出來解冷約 20 分鐘。預熱焗爐至 200C/400F。
7. 豬頸肉放在鋪了烘培紙的烤盤上，焗 15 分鐘後把肉翻轉，視乎豬頸肉厚度，再烤約 10 分鐘至肉邊微焦即可取出。
8. 待豬頸肉稍涼，以 45 度角逆紋切成薄片，以蘸汁伴吃，味道絕佳！

Tried this recipe?
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Trick or Treat, Heat or Sweet: Halloween Stuffed Pumpkin Duo | 萬聖「南」式生死戀

附中文食譜

Fall is finally here! My favorite season of the year brings cooler evenings, an end to ravaging typhoons, yellowing leaves, spiced apple cider, and loads and loads of pumpkins. Around the world this autumn staple pops up in menus from pastas, baked goods, your morning coffee and, soon, to all things Halloween. I realize all these years I haven't done much for Halloween, but that is all going to change!

My first ever hand-carved mini Jack-O'-Lanterns! Feed them a candle and watch as they come alive!

Several weeks ago KitchenAid Hong Kong got in touch with me regarding an exciting opportunity to collaborate in an upcoming campaign #CapturingTaste. They are to partner up with SONY and host a series of food photography and styling workshops, featuring creations by a talented team of local chefs handpicked by KitchenAid. Before I knew it, I've reached for an imaginary paper bag in case of hyperventilation upon receiving this extraordinary invitation. The event is slated to debut on October 30; and my assigned theme is Halloween - perfectly in time for the spooky celebration!

Flanked by a star-studded lineup of half a dozen accomplished chefs, entrepreneurs and cooking school founders, I couldn't help but feel intimidated. We were each assigned a theme and tasked to design and prepare one dish at the KitchenAid live kitchen to be the centerpiece of a professional photo shoot. Imagination is one's own limit, granted that healthful eating and sustainability is taken into account and that artificial food coloring is avoided at all cost. Sounds right up my alley!

In the weeks following, as fireworks began to set off in my brain, I delineated several routes I could take to bring Halloween to life. Do I want to go gory, gross, and scary? Nah. Spooky but cute? Maybe. Color themed with a touch of fall and fusion? Yes! Having seen crates upon crates of colorful, adorable (some adorably deformed and resembling a witch's wart-covered nose) pumpkins and squash in markets in Europe and the U.S., already I was certain that these would play a pivotal role in the presentation of my dish. All I needed was to inject creativity and a splash of orange and black.

While orange colors are rather easy to come by in the plant kingdom, black may not be as prevalent. Drawing inspirations from international cuisines and ingredients, I scoured my mind for all things naturally black in nature. Squid ink, charcoal powder, olives... and bam! Thai black glutinous rice came up in a conversation with a friend. My eyes lit up, sending sparkles throughout my brain. That is it. I am going to create a Halloween mini stuffed pumpkin duo drawing influences from Thai and other cuisines.

Black sticky rice and pumpkin are both traditional dessert ingredients ubiquitous across Thailand. I decided to steam rather than simmer the glutinous rice for a firmer and less runny consistency, and drizzle in a salty sweet coconut sauce exactly like what you'll find on sticky rice with mango desserts everywhere in Thailand. A knot of pandan leaf and just a tad of Thai palm sugar is added to the rice before steaming to infuse a hint of sweetness and that unmistakable, comforting fragrant note. Feel free to substitute the more delicate Thai palm sugar with gula melaka - the smokier, toffee-edged version of palm sugar, or brown sugar if neither is available.

Watch my mini "tutorial" on carving your own mini Jack-O'-Lanterns!
https://www.facebook.com/alvinspenthousekitchen/videos/165064507771986/

To counter the sweet treat, I made hummus - yes, I know, a little out of the blue it seems - but this is not your ordinary hummus, but a velvety smooth orange-hued pumpkin hummus with a Thai twist and unanticipated heat. A Thai red curry pumpkin hummus that you just can't stop dipping into. You can use canned pure pumpkin here, but why not make from scratch when it's so easy? Just chop, steam, and peel and in it goes into the processor. Makes a wonderful Halloween party snack, and both recipes are entirely gluten-free and vegan-friendly too! Now this is what I call a Halloween trick or treat!

Directions...

Mini pumpkins and squashes

1. Cut about a quarter to a third of the pumpkins to make a lid. Scoop out all the seeds and pulp and save for other use.

Black Sticky Rice Pudding with Pumpkin
3/4 cup Thai black glutinous rice
1/4 cup white glutinous rice
1 pandan leaf
2 teaspoons Thai palm sugar, chopped
1/4 teaspoon salt
Boiling water

Diced Pumpkin:
120 g butternut squash

Coconut Sauce:
1/2 cup coconut cream
1/2 tablespoon white sugar
1/4 teaspoon salt

Black Sticky Rice Pudding:
1. Combine the rice, wash and soak in water for at least 3 hours up to overnight. Drain and rinse, and place into a heatproof dish. Tie the pandan leaf into a knot and nestle into the glutinous rice. Scatter chopped palm sugar on top of the rice.

2. Add some boiling water to the dish, leaving a top layer or rice exposed. Steam for 25 minutes or until the rice is cooked but still retains a chewy and slightly crunchy texture.

3. Discard pandan leaf and stir in salt and three-quarters of the coconut sauce. Set aside and allow the rice to absorb the coconut sauce. If making ahead of time, do not mix in the coconut sauce until ready to eat. Scoop into prepared mini pumpkins, drizzle some more coconut sauce, and scatter diced pumpkin over the rice.

Diced Pumpkin:
Dice pumpkin into small cubes. Steam for 4 minutes, remove and plunge into an ice bath to stop the cooking. Drain and set aside.

Coconut Sauce:
Warm coconut cream in a small saucepan over low heat. Stir in sugar and salt until dissolved.

Thai Red Curry Pumpkin Hummus
1 can (425 g) chickpeas, rinsed and drained
420 g butternut squash
3 cloves garlic
1 teaspoon fresh grated ginger
2 tablespoons tahini (sesame seed paste)
1 1/2 tablespoon Thai red curry paste (adjust to taste)
1/4 cup coconut milk

Garnish (optional):
Paprika | Bird's eye chili, chopped | Cilantro, chopped

1. Rinse, scrape out all the seeds and pulp, and cut butternut squash into large chunks. Steam for 8-10 minutes until softened and easily pierced with a fork. Remove skin once cooled enough to handle.

2. Place chickpeas, cooked pumpkin, garlic, grated ginger, tahini, curry paste, and coconut milk in a food processor, blend, and check taste and consistency. Add more coconut milk if necessary to loosen. To increase heat, blend in half a bird's eye chili. Puree until smooth. Scoop into prepared mini pumpkins, and top with garnish.

【 萬聖「南」式生死戀 】

『椰汁黑糯米配南瓜粒』

材料：

泰國黑糯米           3/4 杯

泰國白糯米           1/4 杯

斑蘭葉                    1 片

泰國棕櫚糖            2 茶匙

幼鹽                         1/4 茶匙

滾水                         適量

南瓜粒：    

南瓜                         120 克

椰汁：

椰漿                         115 毫升

砂糖                         1/2 湯匙

幼鹽                         1/4 茶匙

做法：

1. 黑糯米和白糯米洗淨，用清水浸三小時或過夜。 

2. 南瓜切小粒， 隔水蒸四分鐘後撈起浸冰水。撈起備用。

3. 斑蘭葉打個小結，連同隔了水的糯米放在蒸盆內。棕櫚糖撒在面。注入滾水（隔水蒸 25-30 分鐘。

4. 椰漿用慢火煮開，加入鹽和糖，拌勻備用。

5. 糯米蒸好後把斑蘭葉拔出。拌入幼鹽和部分椰汁，靜置數分鐘，讓糯米吸收掉椰汁。

6. 食用前再淋上剩餘椰汁和撒上南瓜粒，即成！

『泰式咖哩南瓜鷹嘴豆泥醬』

罐裝鷹嘴豆              425 克

南瓜                           420 克

蒜頭                            3 瓣

薑蓉                            1 茶匙

純芝麻醬                   2 湯匙

泰國紅咖哩               1 1/2 湯匙

椰汁                            60 毫升

裝飾用：紅椒粉 | 指天椒（切粒）| 芫荽（切粒）

1. 南瓜去籽洗淨後切段，隔水蒸 8-10 分鐘至軟身。待涼後去皮。

2. 將所有材料放入攪拌器，高速攪打一分鐘後試味。如喜歡較辛辣的可加入半條指天椒。將混合物攪打至呈細緻泥狀。撒上裝飾，即成！

Nam Jim: Thai Dipping Sauce | 泰式秘制酸辣蘸汁

附中文食譜

Cilantro - also known as coriander - is perhaps the one herb in the entire herb kingdom that has the power to incite reactions of extremity. It has always been met with either love or despise and nothing in between. Folks in Camp Cilantrophobia would resolutely request to "skip the green stuff" (走青) when ordering a bowl of fish ball noodles - their repugnance towards those frilly, pungent green specks bordering on fear of some lethal allergic response. On the contrary, those in Camp Gimme More would shamelessly empty whole tubs of chopped cilantro onto their tacos at the taco joint. Ahem, just saying.

It is really recently that I realize there may be another Camp staking out discretely in the middle between the polar opposites. Let's call it the Camp I-don't-mind-cilantro-if-it's-mixed-with-other-stuff. Every time I have friends over for a Mexican or Moroccan feast, I would apprehensively ask if anyone's adverse to cilantro, keeping fingers tightly crossed for a negative lest someone's walking out hungry. Fortunately, I discovered this somewhat more 'liberal' Camp whose tolerance for cilantro broadens when its flavor blends and sparkles with others.

For the record, I, too, was once upon a time a radical member of Camp Cilantrophobia, but am now a proud convert that does empty whole tubs of fresh chopped cilantro onto my tacos at the taco joint. What Camp are you in?

Whichever Camp you belong to, the following recipe is guaranteed to unite us all. This Thai Nam Jim is a tangy, spicy, versatile dipping sauce that packs a punch in flavor and can liven up anything from seafood to grilled meats and even salads. Melding the fundamental tastes of sweet, sour, salty with a kick of garlic and heat, this dressing is a sure-fire solution to use up any leftover cilantro, from the leaves and stalks all the way down to the roots, with nothing going to waste. In Thailand, this Nam Jim typically pairs with fresh raw shrimps, or Kung Che Nam Pla (กุ้งแช่น้ำปลา), and is equally delicious with steamed fish, calamari, barbecued chicken, and stewed pork. So the next time you ever have too much cilantro hanging around, whip this dip up and rest assured you will be wishing you got more. Welcome to Camp Gimme More!

What you'll need...
3 cloves garlic

2 bird's eye chili

5 stalks cilantro, roots included

1/2 tablespoon palm sugar*

2 tablespoons fresh lime juice
2 tablespoons fish sauce

*Note: If Thai palm sugar is not available, substitute with Gula melaka, the Malaysian palm sugar, which imparts a smoky sweetness to the Nam Jim. Alternatively, use coconut sugar or brown sugar.

Directions...
1. Using a small knife, scrape and clean the cilantro roots to rid of any chewy, stringy bits.

Waste not: make use of the entire stalk, from leaves to roots!

2. De-seed the chilies as desired. Finely chop the garlic, chili, and cilantro roots and stems and crush into a rough paste using a mortar and pestle or a blender. Add palm sugar and pound until dissolved. Add lime juice and fish sauce and adjust to taste. When ready to use, add chopped cilantro leaves.

《泰式秘制酸辣蘸汁》

香港人最愛的「公車腩霸」，可謂泰國必吃之名菜之一。吸引的並非只是生蝦刺身，而是伴隨的泰式酸辣蘸汁，將其鮮甜提升到另一境界。無論你對芫荽是愛或恨，都難以抵擋這秘制酸辣汁的「味力」！不過除了生蝦，你有否想過原來打邊爐常吃的脆鯇片也能跟它成為絕配？

 

材料：

蒜瓣                  3 瓣

指天椒             2 隻
芫荽                  5 棵（連根）
椰糖                  15 克*
新鮮青檸汁     2 湯匙
魚露                  2 湯匙

做法：
1. 芫荽根部用小刀刮除乾淨，露出內裡雪白幼嫩的部分。 
2. 指天椒可依個人喜好去籽。蒜頭、指天椒及芫荽根與莖剁碎，用研缽和研棒或攪拌機磨成蓉，令酸辣汁更為入味。
3. 加入椰糖，繼續磨至完全溶化。
4. 加入青檸汁和魚露拌勻，再作適當調味。最後，加入剁碎了的芫荽葉即成。

*備註： 椰糖味道香濃，亦可以紅糖或砂糖代替。

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Thai Stir-fried Morning Glory | 泰式飛天炒通菜 | Phad Pak Bung Fai Daeng

附中文食譜

Phad Pak bung fai daeng - popularly known as "stir-fried morning glory" - one of the most recognizable Thai vegetable favorites that is ubiquitously served from streetside to restaurants across Thailand, is as easily, and quickly, prepared at home. The ingredient list is so short and sweet, the dish can practically be whipped up in a flash, literally.

Stir fry like you mean it over a blazing flame - and the dish is ready in a flash!

The main ingredient of this stirfry is obviously pak bung jiin (jiin: Thai for China/Chinese), commonly known as kangkong, Chinese water spinach, or ong choy (蕹菜) in different cultures. This Chinese variety is not to be confused with its Thai counterpart, which tends to be larger in the stalk. Like many stirfries in Thai cuisine, the Chinese influence on this dish is undeniable, as is most evident in the use of a wok on very high heat (hence fai daeng, blazing "red fire" in Thai) and the seasoning ingredients.

Water spinach is not only easy to wash, it is super uncostly by the bunch

What makes it distinctly Thai, nevertheless, is its generous use of fish sauce, oyster sauce, fermented soybean paste, chili, and a touch of sugar, which gives the dish its signature savory and sweet followed by a pang of fire. I sometimes substitute Thai fish sauce with a secret ingredient - Bagoong Balayan, a turbid, fermented anchovy sauce produced exclusively in the Batangas, Philippines that imparts an even richer, more pungent "fishy" flavor than fish sauce.

This dish is so tasty, so hot, and ready in seconds, it literally flies - hence its moniker "Flying Pak Bung" in Thai, which also explains why this popular dish is often translated as "飛天炒通菜" in Chinese.

What you'll need...
1 large bunch water spinach
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
4 large cloves of garlic
3 bird eye chilis
1 tablespoon oyster sauce
1 tablespoon fermented bean sauce
1 tablespoon fish sauce
1 teaspoon sugar
1/4 cup water or chicken broth

Directions... 

Smashed whole red chilis are easy to spot and pick out after plating 

1. Wash water spinach and drain. Cut into 3-inch segments, separating stalk and leaf. Give the garlic cloves and whole chilis a good whack. Place stalk in a large bowl and top with smashed garlic and chilis.

2. In a small bowl, mix together oyster sauce, fermented bean sauce, fish sauce, sugar, and water/chicken broth.

3. In a large wok over very high heat, heat oil until beginning to smoke. Dump stalk, garlic and chilis all at once into the wok, followed by the sauce. Briskly stir fry, then quickly add the remaining leafy portion of the water spinach and stir fry to coat well with sauce. Remove from heat at once when the vegetables wilt, turn bright green and tender-crisp, and transfer to serving platter immediately. The whole process takes barely a minute.

If you ever wonder why this dish is named "Flying Morning Glory", give it a try at your own kitchen and it will all make sense

《泰式飛天炒通菜》

材料：

通菜  600 克

生油  1 湯匙

蒜頭  4 瓣

指天椒  3 隻

調味料：

蠔油  1 湯匙*

豆醬  1 湯匙

魚露  1 湯匙*

砂糖  1 茶匙

水或上湯  60 毫升

做法：

1. 通菜洗淨切段，約三寸長，置於大盤內備用（建議嫩葉分開）。

2. 蒜瓣和指天椒略拍扁，放在切好的通菜上面。

3. 調味料拌勻備用。

4. 熱鑊下油，傾入通菜、蒜、指天椒及調味料，用大火快速翻炒再加入嫩葉兜勻。

5. 當通菜顏色變得鮮豔之後馬上熄火，上碟即成。過程僅需一分鐘！ 

*備註：食素者可選擇以生抽取替魚露和李錦記香菇素蠔油代替蠔油。

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Tom Kha Gai | Thai Coconut Galangal Chicken Soup

When it comes to Thai soups, Tom Yum Kung and Tom Kha Gai are like sisters with polar personalities - the former fiesty and hot-headed, the latter sweet and mild. Tom Kha Gai (ต้มข่าไก่) has long been a personal favorite, why with its seamless pairing of creamy coconut milk and an array of Thai spices and seasonings, resulting in a light, silky, and fragrant soup that is well balanced in flavor, and heat. In Thailand, Tom Kha Gai is typically served with rice as part of a whole meal ensemble, although this soup can very well be a meal all in one, if you will.

Whenever I visit Bangkok, I always come home loaded with fresh lemongrass, Thai chilis, limes and pea eggplants, to name just a few. When out of stock, I turn to my petite Thai and Indonesian grocery shop at the wet market - a godsend, really - that stocks up on the essentials, catering mainly to expats and domestic helpers.

Savory, sweet, silky, loaded with Thai herbs and a hint of heat

Most restaurants use boneless, skinless chicken breast in Tom Kha Gai; though I prefer chicken thigh meat for its succulence and tenderness, and a lesser chance of overcooking. As always, season the soup to taste; the measurements below are meant to be taken as a reference.

This Tom Kha Gai was served as part of my four-entree Thai-themed dinner party earlier this month. Check out Larb Moo (Thai Spicy Ground Pork Salad) for a simple, tasty "starter"! Happy Thai New Year!

To prepare...
2-3 boneless, skinless chicken thighs, sliced
2 cup coconut milk
2 cup water
2 stalk lemongrass, sliced at a bias
2 inch galangal, sliced at a bias
4 kaffir lime leaves
2-4 Thai bird's eye chilis (to taste)
1 medium onion, or 3-4 shallots, sliced into wedges
3 Thai tomatoes, cut into wedges, or 7-8 whole cherry tomatoes
A handful of Thai pea eggplants, sliced (optional)
A handful of fresh oyster mushrooms, split into smaller pieces as desired
A handful of fresh straw mushrooms, cut into wedges as desired
2 tablespoon fresh lime juice (or to taste)
2 tablespoon fish sauce (or more, to taste)
1 teaspoon sugar (to taste)
Pinch of salt
A small bunch of cilantro, reserving some for garnish
A light drizzle of chili oil, for garnish (optional)

1. On medium heat, add coconut milk and water to a pot, add galangal, lemongrass, and onion, gently cook until fragrant. Just before the mixture comes to a boil, add in chicken, and lower heat to a simmer.

2. Lightly crush the chilis with a few gentle whacks using a knife, then add directly to the soup. Go ahead and tip in the mushrooms and Thai eggplants, if using. Give the soup a gentle stir.

3. As the soup is just about to boil, add in the tomatoes and continue to simmer. Take the kaffir lime leaves, break and loosely tear them with your hands, and drop directly into the pot. Doing so will help release the fragrance.

4. Season with a pinch of salt and sugar, then season with fish sauce to taste. Gently stir on a low simmer, 5-7 minutes, to ensure that the ingredients are fully cooked, without overcooking the coconut milk.

5. Turn heat off. Squeeze in the lime juice and taste test until the seasoning is just right. Finally, add cilantro to the soup and finish with a scant drizzle of chili oil (optional).

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